Fitting a blind to a conservation rooflight, planned into the reveal

A conservation rooflight has a slim frame and often a flush, shallow reveal. That rules out some blinds and suits others.

Bulky cassette blinds designed for deep roof windows can crowd the opening and sit awkwardly against the glazing bar. The better choice is a fine-section roller or pleated blind, made to measure for the opening, with slim side channels that follow the pitch of the roof. The channels hold the fabric flat against the glass side of the reveal so it does not flap or leave a gap at the edges, which matters for blackout.

The fabric does most of the work. A blackout fabric stops the light dead, and a light-filtering fabric softens it without losing the room. Pleated blinds trap a small pocket of air, which takes the edge off the heat of summer sun. Roller blinds are simpler and sit slimmer when rolled up.

The fixing is what decides whether the blind looks like part of the room or a bolt-on.

In most cases the blind's side channels screw into the timber lining or the frame, along the two long sides of the opening. The rail at the top is fixed to the head of the reveal, and the fabric runs down the slope. Nothing is stuck to the glass, and nothing is drilled through the sealed unit. A slim conservation frame has limited depth, so the blind is chosen to fit the depth that exists.

On a roof with a fall, the pitch matters. A blind in a steep slope hangs differently from one in a flat ceiling, so the channels and a tension mechanism are used to hold the fabric close to the plane of the glass. A made-to-measure blind is measured from the finished reveal, not the rough opening, so the survey measures twice: once for the rooflight and once after the lining is complete.

A blind also has to allow for the opening sash, if the unit opens. Our page on whether conservation rooflights open explains the hinge types, and each one changes where a blind can sit. A top-hung unit opens away from the blind, while a centre-pivot arrangement needs a different fixing.

The cheapest moment to think about a blind is before the plasterboard is fixed.

Behind the lining there is room to place timber blocking, which gives screws a solid bite. If the blind will be motorised or solar-operated, the cable route or the place for a small receiver can be set out while the walls are open. Adding those later means chasing plaster or surface-mounting wiring, neither of which suits a neat reveal.

The blind also influences the shape of the reveal itself. A deep, splayed reveal carries light into the room and gives the blind somewhere to sit, while a square one is tighter. The splay is worth thinking about together with the frame. The page on how flush fitting conservation rooflights sit in the roof shows where the lining meets the frame.

If you want an electric opener as well, the blind and the motor should be planned together, because they compete for the same space. The page on electric openers on conservation rooflights covers that side.

A blind changes light, glare and heat in a room. It is not a substitute for choosing the glass well.

In a bedroom, a blackout blind gives you a dark room at dawn in summer. Heat is a bigger question. A blind on the inside stops sunlight after it has come through the glass, so the heat is already in the room, though a pale, reflective fabric helps. If overheating is the concern, the answer starts with the glazing, and our page on energy efficient rooflights explains what a solar control coating does. A blind then finishes the job.

Blinds and sound are connected in a small way. A blind is not an acoustic treatment, but a fabric surface in the reveal adds a little softness to a hard room. The real quiet comes from the glazing build, the seals and how the opening is packed, all recorded in the quiet spec that comes with every quote. The quiet spec page explains what is in it.

Condensation is worth a mention. A tight blind over cold glass can hold damp air against the pane on a winter morning. A good sealed unit keeps the inner pane warmer, and a little gap at the edge or a habit of raising the blind by day helps the room breathe. That is why channels that seal all four sides suit blackout in summer but are worth thinking about for winter.

The neatest result comes from one plan for the rooflight, the lining and the blind.

At the survey we note the room, the pitch, the frame depth and the use of the room. We then tell you what blind type suits and where the fixings and cable would go. The rooflight is installed to current Building Regulations, we handle the Building Control notification where the work is notifiable, and the workmanship is guaranteed for 10 years. Blinds themselves are chosen and ordered to suit your room, and we make the opening ready for them. Send the room details through the quote form and we will include the blind in the plan.

Can I fit a blind to an existing conservation rooflight?

Usually, yes, if there is enough depth in the reveal and a sound fixing point. Side channels are screwed into the lining or frame, and the blind is made to measure. An existing unit with a shallow reveal may limit the choices.

Will a blind scratch or mark the glass?

A well-made blind does not touch the glass. The fabric runs in channels beside it, and the blind is tensioned to stop it swinging against the pane.

Is a blackout blind enough for a nursery?

For light, yes, if the side channels are tight. For comfort, think about the glazing as well. Our page on double glazed conservation rooflights and heat loss helps with that.

Where should I start reading?

The parent page on conservation rooflight installation lists every topic.